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Musky perfumes, a guide to wild and instinctive fragrances
When you hear about musky perfumes, the first image that comes to mind is that of the forest, of wood, of the earth. In fact, the olfactory family of musky perfumes includes all those wild fragrances that recall the world of the forest, the herbs of the undergrowth and the subsoil, the woody and earthy smell that envelops it.
But the forest is also fresh, and therefore freshness is another distinctive feature of musky fragrances. Used for a long time in base notes, that is, in the most persistent and intense ones, the musky fragrance is one of the most prized protagonists in the entire composition of fragrances signed by niche Arab perfumery.
What characterizes musky perfumes is their ability to connect those who wear them with nature. Nature evokes unique and instinctive sensations, capable of exploring new dimensions and recalling ancient memories.
Warning: musky does not mean musk
Before delving into the heart of the matter of musky perfumes, it is appropriate to make a clarification. This family includes fragrances made with natural and vegetal ingredients, and therefore not of animal origin, such as the so-called “musk” perfumes. Although the assonance might lead one to think that they are synonyms, in reality musk and musky refer to two opposite meanings.
It is clear that the two terms are also differentiated by a question of the aroma released. In perfumery, musk is associated with an animal scent, precisely because in ancient times musk was a liquid substance obtained from the abdominal glands of a small deer from Central Asia, the Moschus moschiferus, which was used in oils and lotions. But since the 19th century, synthetic molecules that reproduced the smell of musk have been tested, so the fragrances with animal notes of musk that are on the market contain only chemical molecules that reproduce the animal aroma.
But musk and musky also have a character in common. For a very long time their aromas have been associated with virility, masculinity, power, and therefore the perfumes made with these ingredients were designed for a male audience. Only with the inclusion of white musk among the ingredients was it thought to extend their use to women, since this variety of musk is cleaner and more delicate, characteristics that have always been the prerogative of the female world.
Musk perfumes: fragrances with such enveloping notes
The musk used in musk perfumes is of the highest quality because it is extracted from types of trees that release an intense woody or talc scent with a delicate and very pleasant odor. Mainly, the types of musk most used in perfumery are oak moss, with an aroma that is sometimes pungent, sometimes warm and enveloping, pine moss, so fresh and spring-like, and white moss, with a sweet and clean aroma.
The category of musky perfumes is therefore defined by all those fragrances with vegetal notes with an earthy and humid, woody and even smoky scent, which are typically found by smelling the undergrowth. They are the same vegetal notes that are found in fragrances of the cyprus and leather olfactory families, and in fact musky fragrances are often mixed with these.
To recreate a more complete woody aroma, niche perfumery often uses other lichens capable of giving the fragrance a greener and fresher note.
From these raw materials, fragrances with an unmistakable identity are born, perfect for those who want to make people talk about them with the right amount of audacity. Whether they are a man or a woman, and even without gender limitations. In fact, Arab perfumery has also thought of unisex musky fragrances rich in facets, such as the Bade'e Al Oud Sublime perfume by the maison Lattafa Parfumes. The musky notes are joined by the fruity and crunchy notes of green apple, but also the sweeter and more fragrant ones of lychee and rose, adding depth and juiciness with heart notes of plum and jasmine and enveloping the finish with sweet and spicy notes of vanilla, but also musky and earthy with patchouli.
Musk perfumes, discreet and sensual
If for the great Spanish director Luis Buñuel, discreet charm belonged to the bourgeoisie, for luxury Arab perfumery, this charm is attributed to those fragrances that can be seductive and sophisticated, but at the same time never invasive and excessive, like those that come from musk notes.
And musk perfumes are appreciated for each of these reasons, as well as for their ability to evoke that scent of cleanliness and freshness that both men and women like so much. A scent that is even linked to a familiar sensation that awakens the instinct, because it recalls the smell of laundry hanging out to dry on a cool summer day.
Due to their discreet nature, musk perfumes are often mixed with other olfactory notes, with which they blend harmoniously, without damaging the intensity of one or accentuating the presence of the other. This is what happens in the Tribute Blue perfume by the Arab perfumery maison Afnan, a particularly intense and persistent fragrance for men, chosen by those who want to add a touch of extra determination to their style. The opening is spicy and hot thanks to nutmeg and black pepper, wet with a few drops of bergamot, the heart becomes creamier and softer with amber and cashmere wood, concluding with deep, energizing and meditative notes typical of musk, vetiver and incense.
In the women's fragrance Addicted Madame by Hamidi, however, the musky notes are mixed with fruity florals, to give life to a perfume with a very distinct and modern character, with a touch of sensuality and elegance that never hurts. The top notes are fruity, fresh and citrusy, with grapefruit, bergamot, orange and peach, while in the heart you reach a seductive, sweet and feminine bouquet of geranium, jasmine, lychee and rose. Finally, the base notes add depth with patchouli, vanilla, vetiver and musk, to envelop with sophisticated and luxurious presence.
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